Skin Care Products That Work Well Together
Thanks to a wide range of affordable cosmetics brands that focus on science and efficacy (like The Ordinary, The Inkey List and the new Q+A line), skincare has somehow turned into a playful chemistry exercise. But now that it’s possible to get our hands on a plethora of skincare actives like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and zinc, and combine them to suit our skin’s needs, it can be easy to overdo it and combine the wrong ingredients. Sure, some actives work together harmoniously, but some can cancel each other out (making them totally useless) or, even worse, cause stress and skin irritation. So what skin care products work well together and which ones don’t ?
The wrong mix of skincare actives can cause skin irritation and dryness. It can also counteract the benefits of certain actives, rendering them ineffective, and ultimately costing you money. D on the other hand, a well-thought-out cocktail of ingredients can effectively tackle multiple skin concerns (be it acne or pigmentation, for example), help neutralize the unwanted side effects of certain actives (such as retinol and acids) and help certain actives to act in synergy, which reinforces their effects.
There are some things to remember. It’s important when mixing skincare actives that you are sure you have the knowledge to do it correctly and effectively. If not, consider seeing a consultant dermatologist.
Here are the main dos and don’ts to know about the skin care products that work well together, so you can get the most out of your products.
Retinol
Retinol is a wonderful active to fight the signs of aging, acne, pigmentation, etc. Also known as vitamin A, retinoids work by stimulating collagen production, stimulating elastic tissue, increasing skin health and inhibiting pigment formation. They also help reduce fine lines and improve skin firmness. However, you should be patient, you should use it regularly for six to twelve months to achieve results.
Mix: retinol with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and a good SPF. The latter is essential, because retinol can make the skin very sensitive to the sun.
Do not mix: retinol with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide (BPO) or alpha and beta hydroxy acids, also known as AHAs and BHAs (glycolic acid and salicylic acid). Combined, these products could cause irritation. If you want to incorporate vitamin C into your beauty routine, apply it in the morning and use retinol at night.
The best way to use acids in addition to retinol would be to alternate them every other night (one night using retinol, another night using a leave-in acid exfoliator followed by moisturizer).
Vitamin C
Also known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant. It helps protect against UV and infrared rays, as well as environmental pollution, to prevent pigmentation and inflammation, also known as redness.
Mix: vitamin C with vitamin E and ferulic acid. Both are also antioxidants and boost the skin’s protective shield when combined with vitamin C. Be sure to always use an SPF after your vitamin C serum. It is best to apply vitamin C in the morning. It is easily oxidized and then becomes less effective, so it is important to choose a stable vitamin C product from a reputable brand.
Do not mix: vitamin C + AHA or BHA, retinol or benzoyl peroxide directly on top of each other. If you want to use vitamin C with the actives mentioned above, apply it in the morning and use the rest at night.
Niacinamide
Dubbed the new miracle ingredient in skincare, niacinamide has multiple benefits. Otherwise known as vitamin B3, it penetrates easily, protects the skin against external aggressions, reduces excessive sebum production (which can prevent spots), improves skin hydration and strengthens its skin barrier, which helps to combat drought. This, in turn, helps to boost the elasticity of the skin and improve fine lines and wrinkles as well as the appearance of pores.
Mix: with any skin care active. Niacinamide is suitable for anyone who wants to treat acne, pigmentation, hydration, and reduce dark spots and redness. Niacinamide usually comes in serum form.
Do not mix: Although there are claims that mixing niacinamide with vitamin C will not harm the skin, this is a hotly debated topic within the cosmetics industry. If in doubt, apply vitamin C during the day and apply a niacinamide serum at night.
Benzoyl peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) is a biological peroxide. It treats and prevents acne by penetrating hair follicles, eliminating acne-causing bacteria and reducing inflammation. Benzoyl peroxide is available over-the-counter as a leave-on or rinse-off product and in different dosages. This product is also available by prescription as a skin care product combined with other active ingredients. which are used to treat and prevent acne.
However it is not without side effects. Benzoyl peroxide can cause skin irritation. Rinse-off products or low-strength benzoyl peroxide are generally better tolerated by people with sensitive skin.
Mix: benzoyl peroxide + hyaluronic acid to keep the skin hydrated and soft. It is also possible to mix benzoyl peroxide + sunscreen and benzoyl peroxide + niacinamide.
Do Not Mix: Benzoyl Peroxide + Vitamin C, Benzoyl Peroxide + Retinol (except for a specifically formulated acne treatment called Epiduo), Benzoyl Peroxide + AHA/BHA.
If you want to include benzoyl peroxide and vitamin C, retinol, or AHAs and BHAs in your skincare routine, apply vitamin C in the morning and benzoyl peroxide at night. You can also alternate benzoyl peroxide with retinol and AHAs and BHAs every other night.
Sunscreen
Sunscreen is a topical product that, depending on the formula, absorbs, reflects, and diffuses UVA and UVB rays from the sun. It protects the skin against redness, sunburn, skin cancer, melasma, hyperpigmentation and photo-aging of the skin, such as fine lines. It’s best to use it in the morning and reapply it every two to four hours if you sweat or the skin becomes damp.
Mix: Sunscreen can be used with any skincare active. If you use retinol and skin care acids, sunscreen is a must, as both can cause skin sensitivity. Sunscreen should be used by everyone: all skin types and all skin tones.
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